Bruges: who planned this city?

Right, so as usual I can only really piece together the last couple of days by looking at my photos.
Yesterday we did a couple of the walking tours that were recommended in the guide book lent to us by our awesome and gracious hosts at Hotel Bonobo Apart (highly, highly recommend this hotel).  One walk was I think three kilometres and the other one was 2.5 kilometres and it took us hours to do.
Bruges is so, so incredibly convoluted.  There are few straight streets here and if you missed a turn on the walking tour described in our handbook you were increasingly turned around.  Our 5.5 kilometre walk yesterday probably ended up being an additional kilometre or two because we got lost so much.
Bruges is dense and twisty and windy and nothing connects with anything, but it's an amazing city.  I think it's topped my list of European cities to date.  As Michael says, it's a bit "fake" as it's such a perfectly preserved city like Venice, that seems rather ethereal and caters so much to tourists but, as we're closing in on October and as the bus tours don't seem to stay overnight, we seem to get the late afternoon and evenings to ourselves (thank fck).
Anyways, English is readily spoken here.  It's expensive as hell, but we found a supermarket and some cheap eats (sushi again - and again: great sushi).  People are nice.
After our walk yesterday we went to T' Brugsch Bieratelier, which was highly rated as a place to check out beer in Bruges.  It was good, but for the top ranked nightlife destination it was dead.  We did a beer flight which was very tasty (like French food? I'm not sure what we're drinking in Canada, but it's nothing like what they have here: the beer is epic) and listened to some great music and then moved on to the number two recommended place: Café Rose Red.
This place was packed and the ambiance was wonderful, though a bit too busy.  We had another beer flight which was both bigger and broader and then essentially came home and crashed.
Today we did the last walking tour recommended in the book, which took us out of the city a little bit and led us past some windmills which was neat.  Coming back into the city we had waffles for lunch, and then climbed to the top of the Belfry before checking out the Salvador Dali and Picasso exhibits in town.
Grabbed sushi for dinner again and then checked out Wijnbar Est for some live jazz.  It was such an amazing tiny venue and the musician played such great standards.
Bruges has absolutely been the highlight of my trip over here, though it's hard to say because on our Trafalgar tour we only stopped so briefly in each little area.  I'm not sure many people would have been interested in returning to Bruges after the few hours they spent here on the tour, which leads me to believe that there are a lot of other amazing cities that I briefly passed through that are surely worth a second or third glance.
Tomorrow we're renting bikes and taking off... somewhere.  Haven't quite got that sussed yet.
The day after we take the train to Brussels and fly to Berlin which should be quite interesting.  I'm very much looking forward to it.